I've been here just over a week now, and it still hasn't particularly "hit me" that I'm living in Shanghai... but I know I'm not in Kansas anymore, as they say. Every day here is just one crazy experience after another, each of which is slowly helping realise that, yes, I am here. Perhaps I'll start with the people:
I've had (and heard of) a few interesting experiences that are starting to define my time here. The first of which happened to my friend Chris a few weeks ago. I need to preface this with a brief explanation of Chris: he is a contagiously happy person, always with a huge smile on his face.. to me, Chris literally exemplifies the term "bright eyed", and everyone who knows him would agree. Now one day, Chris was late to go tutor a student who lives a bit farther out of the city. (In general, it's pretty easy to take cabs out here if you can figure out how to pronounce the street names (a skill I still struggle with), and the occasional cabbie will, unfortunately, turn you down if he feels like it.) Well, on this particular day, Chris was having trouble communicating to the driver where he wanted to go, and panicked and in a hurry, he found himself in the middle of a heated "discussion" with a driver who wouldn't take him where he needed to go. And just as the wonderfully positive Chris was beginning to lose faith in the people of this city, in swooped (almost literally) his very own version of a one-manned A-team... riding a vespa. The man couldn't help but notice that Chris was dismayed, and after reading the address of his far-away destination, the man motioned to the back of his vespa and insisted that Chris hop on for a ride. Perhaps if this had happened to Chris in another country, he might have been weary of this potentially creepy stranger's random kindness, but in Shanghai, anything goes, so he hopped on and hoped for the best. It was a long ride to the student's house, and our vespa hero professionally navigated the bumpy streets (and sidewalks) of Shanghai to get Chris to his meeting on time.. and even refused to take money for it. So, Chris's faith (and smile) were restored, and he now happily wanders the streets of the city with a new perception of the people around him.
I had a similarly positive experience with some Shanghainese citizens the other day, though not to the extent that Chris did. It was pouring with rain (I, of course, don't own an umbrella and refuse to buy one until I can masterfully negotiate prices in Mandarin.. I'm Arab; I can't help it), and I was apartment hunting around the city. After I left an apartment, I stood under an awning waiting for the rain to ease up when an old man turned to me and motioned to join him under his umbrella. So I obliged, and he tightly linked arms with me and enthusiastically walked me through the long driveway, where we were met with whoops of happiness from the building's security guard. Thankfully, I was able to communicate to him where I was going... and he refused to let go of me until I was safely under another dry awning (actually, he got behind me and pushed me into the awning at this point, but it was still really cute). We said goodbye and parted ways. Then, a few hours later, I was waiting to cross the street, soaking wet, and another old man joined me with his umbrella. He again asked me where I was going, and even though our destinations differed, he walked me as far as he could and then told me the word for umbrella (which I now forget) and told me where I could buy one. Now, I know people in this city are supposed to be "tough", but in years of living in London and the states, no one has ever done this for me. Even if this is a rare occurrence, it was still a great way to be welcomed into the rainy weather of the city. I still don't own an umbrella... let's see how long I can keep this going for.
My third little story is less about heros and more an observation about my uselessness as a person... I was at a classical music concert this weekend, and the performance hall also happened to be home to about 30 grand pianos being displayed around the building. During the intermission, I noticed that each piano was being occupied by a child from the audience, and that each child was playing (absolutely beautifully) some really advanced music. Emphasis on "child" and emphasis on "advanced". And while these children were playing, their parents stood over them (proudly, I hope) watching critically. It was fascinating. I can't get anyone to so much as glance my way when I sit in front of a piano, and here I was watching about 30 mini concertos all being performed by children less than half of my age... no wonder the Beijing opening ceremonies were so brilliant... no wonder I think I'm useless.
Anyway, as I said, each day here is filled with new eye-opening experiences, and I can never get enough. Maybe when I do, I'll finally decide to leave.. but I don't see that happening any time soon.